Used Car Checklist

Buying your next used car at a Government Auction allows you to pay wholesale, if not below wholesale prices. Many cars are only a couple of years old with low mileage, and some were pre-owned by government agencies, who have a history of taking extremely good care of their vehicles.

Here are some basic steps you need to take before participating in a car auction:

1. Bring copies of the Kelley Blue Book and the NADA guide to check auto prices. Having a target price in mind will help once the bidding starts.

2. Make sure to notice if all the car's Vehicle Identification Numbers (VINs) match up. Most auction houses will give a Carfax Vin report on the vehicles of your interest, to give you peace of mind.

3. Take care to examine the car itself for signs of past damage. Many people assume all used cars up for auction are clunkers. That is simply not true. Like most things in life, there’s good stuff and there’s garbage. Many of the vehicles you will find up for auction are almost-new cars with low mileage that were repossessed because of a prior owner's inability to make payments. It is very possible to purchase a car only a year or two old for thousands of dollars less than you would if you bought that same car at a dealer.

Having said this, some cars you will see are not in the best shape, and if you follow the 25 points below, you will have no problem spotting the clunkers so you can purchase with confidence:

*** Bald or uneven tire wear on tires or (indicates bad alignment, possibly from a wreck.

*** Damaged wheel rims on one side of the car only, usually the side not facing the bidders.

*** Auto transmission fluid check: It should be a pinkish or very light reddish color, and smell like motor oil. Note: if its dark red or a brownish or smells burnt. This a common indicator the transmission might be worn or damaged.

*** Engine coolant fluid check: The coolant should be a bright green color, (orange on some). Discolored fluid with a brownish tint could indicate that fluid replacement is past due or in worst case rust deposits from the radiator.

*** Engine oil fluid check: Engine oil should be a smooth darker brown or black color. If it is a milky looking brown, that is an indicator that the oil is mixed with engine coolant, which in some cases be a costly repair.

*** Rebuilt title. This usually drops the value of the car by 30%. Vehicle report should state this.

*** All VIN#'s stickers from the doors, hood, trunk, dashboard do not match. Could have been wrecked or stolen.

*** No title present for you to take today. Avoid "title in transit" cars. Check the vehicle history.

*** Problem title cars (junked, salvaged, flooded, fire, etc.). Usually shows up in the vehicle report.

*** Rusty disk brakes & drums. Indicates the car has sat abandoned for some time (can be normal) or been flooded.

*** Excessive dimples, scratches, dings, dents, paint chips, especially on bumpers.

*** Malfunctioning A/C.

*** Airbag fraud, fake airbag covers. Hard to catch but the vehicle history will give you an indication what to look for.

*** New carpeting for no apparent reason. Could have been flooded.

*** Variations in thickness of the paint.

*** Traces of paint over-spray along windshield, engine compartment, inside door edges, along door seams.

*** Evidence of leaks or hand applied seal material to plug up window leaks.

*** Feel around door edges for leftover evidence of masking tape from body work, and doors that don't line up.

*** Loose or crooked windows, or power windows that don't work. Motors are over $500.

*** Malfunctioning convertible top.

*** Excessive exhaust coming out of the muffler.

*** Evidence of odometer tampering. Mileage is collected every year and shows up in the service/maintenance documentation.

*** Excessive mileage for the car's age. This gets overlooked by lots of people. We would recommend that you deduct $0.10 - $0.15 per mile extra.

*** Obvious presentation of vehicle, scratchy paintwork, Smoke smell. Use your common sense!

*** Follow your gut instincts. If something does not seem right, do not buy that vehicle!

The quickest and easiest way to find an auction is to use an auction database. Just plug in the make you want and your zip code and gain instant access to all auction houses in your area with full contact information.


There are quite a few databases online, but not all were created equal. Based on user experience there are a few sites worth checking out:


Car-Auctions.com is a WYSIWYG (What You See Is What You Get) site. For $29.99 you get unlimited access to their database of car auctions without a whole lot of other bells and whistles.


Seize Cars.com is another good database. For a one-time fee of $49, you get unlimited access to all car and truck auctions, as well as auctions for boats and houses and electronics, etc. So, if you want to buy a car AND a family boat, this is a good choice.


Gov-Auctions.org was named America’s most trusted and largest resource for Government and police auctions. They also charge $49 for unlimited access to car auctions, as well as boats, homes, electronics auctions, etc. But they offer some things the others don’t.


For one, they have real 24/7 customer support. If you have a question – a real human being gets back to you with an answer. Pretty rare nowadays.


They also have a free auction tutorial which is not offered anywhere else. If you’re new to auctions, this tutorial will explain, step-by-step, how to get the car you want for the price you want.


Gov-Auctions.org also has a free car loan service where you can receive instant car loan offers with the best rates on the market, without any of the usual hassles. A definite time-saver.


Happy car shopping.